Been working on my Bond style triggers today.

Bill Calfee

Gun Fool
Been working on my Bond style triggers today.


CYA friends:


I've been working on the third levers for my Bond style triggers today.


I was talking to Wally about him and Foster coming up this week-end...


I said, "Wally, I'm eat up with these pistols".


He then said, "Bill, you got that right".

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CYA friends, yes I'm eat up with these pistols...


I'm eat up with them because I know what will happen in big time RFBR if the new DiOrio V-3 XP pistol action becomes available to the masses.


CYA friends, if this whole thing does come together, and it will take a little time of course, but, big time RFBR, as we currently know it, will be stood on its head.



And this is good.................


And needed..



Your friend, Bill Calfee

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Here's some pictures of my work today on my third levers.....I've captioned them...






DSC00132.jpg



DSC00135.jpg



DSC00136.jpg



DSC00143.jpg


I've got a 5th picture which is of the completed third lever.....but I can only post four pictures to each post....so I'll let this much sink in, then tomorrow I'll post the finished picture....bc
 
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Still studying....

Still studying....


CYA friends:


Here's the third lever roughed out.....


I've left it attached to the file since it will be easier to hold to finish machining while I'm studying on what kind of return spring I'm going to use.


The Bond trigger uses a coil spring which requires a blind hole to be drilled in the bottom of the third lever...


The trigger I have in my new Turbo pistol now uses a safety pin style spring, which is held by a cross pin through the trigger housing.



But I'm still figuring on how I'm going to do my return spring..


Your friend, BC



DSC00147.jpg



The actual sear contact edge of this third lever will be like a knife edge, since I've got the center line of the radius of the end mill cut back from the actual edge.


Even if the actual edge were on the center line of the end mill cut, resulting in a flat sear contact point, the effect would still be knife edged since the sear surface on the L shaped trigger sear has a radius on top.....


This third lever sear contact edge must set behind the center line of the pivot pin hole of the L shaped sear.


If the sear contact edge of the third lever sat at, or past, the center line of the pivot pin hole in the L shaped sear, it would have a tendency to push the L shaped sear away from it when the trigger came to battery.



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This is the ultimate goal......

Will it be worth all the hassles yet to come to obtain it for the masses?


Yes sir......yes ma'am....10 times over.


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I'm working on an idea...

I'm working on an idea...


CYA friends:


Been working on an idea for my Bond style triggers.


Here's a couple of pictures of the third lever I'm machining...


The first shows the contact points of the transfer bar on top of the third lever, and, the contact point of the tip of the third lever on the L shaped trigger sear.



Please keep this in mind:


The contact point of the transfer bar can rotate no closer to the pivot pin than the radius around around it, which is determined by the thickness of the third lever itself.


And the contact point on the transfer bar, that purchases on the top of the third lever, is knife edged....



DSC00143%20-%20Copy.jpg




Therefore what I'm considering doing, is to mill a relief just back of the contact point of the transfer bar on top of the third lever...


What this will do, is to lessen the amount of down swing that the third lever makes when the trigger is activated.

The contact point of the transfer bar will drop into the relief cut as the third lever is being pushed down, when the trigger is activated.



This will compress the return spring less, therefore, lightening the amount of upward pressure applied by the transfer bar against the bottom of the cocking piece as it moves forward to produce ignition.



DSC00143%20-%20Copy%20-%20Copy.jpg



Your friend, BC
 
Bill,

Attached are two pictures; one shows the trigger in the ready to fire and fired positions with the third lever unmodified. The other shows the same with the modification made to the third lever. By my calculations, it reduces the angular rotation by 35% so if it works smoothly it will be well worth doing.


Best Regards, Anthony
 

Attachments

  • Trigger Assembly Standard Third Lever v2.jpg
    Trigger Assembly Standard Third Lever v2.jpg
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  • Trigger Assembly Modified Third Lever v2.jpg
    Trigger Assembly Modified Third Lever v2.jpg
    9.8 KB · Views: 325
An Idea

Hi Bill

An idea with the trigger 3rd leaver to take your idea further .

You could have a similar notch and relief on the bottom of the transfer bar just to the right of the contact point.

This would in effect make a second sear point and all but remove any sliding action.

The 3rd leaver would only then only have to rotate 12 degrees to fire.

One difficulty is that there may have to be a very light hair spring on the transfer bar to lift it's weight so the thing can reset.

This set up will lower it's rotational inertia of the 3rd leaver to fire and so will and make it snap open faster.

Regards
Graham
 
Friends AD and Deveng

Bill,

Attached are two pictures; one shows the trigger in the ready to fire and fired positions with the third lever unmodified. The other shows the same with the modification made to the third lever. By my calculations, it reduces the angular rotation by 35% so if it works smoothly it will be well worth doing.


Best Regards, Anthony


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Friends AD and Deveng:



Friend Deveng, even though the angle behind the contact point, on the bottom of the transfer bar, isn't a true radius, like the groove in the third lever, it will function just like your idea.


This is why I laid back the angle, right behind the contact point, on the transfer bar I ground.....


I had exactly the same thought as you.


AD and I talked yesterday about this, and he had the same thoughts.



See how acute the angle right behind the contact point becomes as it pushes the third lever down.


DSC00150%20-%20Copy.jpg



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Friend AD, I opened this picture.


DSC00153.jpg




By the way, I made some extra work for myself yesterday.


Remember we talked about how much lateral movement the contact point of the transfer bar has on the top of the third lever, and whether it was so short that cupping the third lever wouldn't actually be beneficial...


So I tried to figure exactly how much movement I had........



I first tried to take this measurement with my third lever still attached to the 14 inch file.......and I couldn't get an accurate measurement.


So I cut my third lever off, and then it was fairly easy to take the measurement.


Here you can see the marks on the third lever.

DSC00152.jpg




Also if you remember, I said it I couldn't gain 30%, or so, of less downward movement of the third lever by milling the groove, it wouldn't be worth the effort.



AD, I suspect you were surprised when you ran your computer graphics, and it showed a 35% reduction, because both of us had our doubts about gaining that much.



Yes, I'm going to mill the groove in my third lever, although, it would have been so much easier if it were still attached to the file...


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And one other thing.......I'm so cited I can't hardly type...


I'm going to grind another transfer bar......here's why:



Now that your computer generated graphics have demonstrated a 35% lessening of the downward movement, I believe I can extend the contact point on the transfer bar further rearward...


Because in effect, the groove reduces the radius around the third lever pivot pin, which means the transfer bar contact point can be extended back further.


Which will increase the fulcrum effect........which is what makes these triggers such light weight pull.


Thank you.

Your friend, BC




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PS:

You know, the Bond trigger makes a Class A pistol fully competitive with any rifle using any brand of trigger.


But, as good and light as the Bond is, my gut is telling me that by being able to move the contact point of the transfer bar further rearward, this trigger will be even lighter in weight, plus, with 35% reduction in downward third lever movement, means 35% less upward pressure against the bottom of the cocking piece, as the firing pin moves forward to produce ignition.


Actually, there will be more than a 35% reduction in upward pressure on the bottom of the cocking piece, since the 35% of spring pressure we're killing is on the most compressed end of the spring movement.
 
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Friend AD

Friend AD....







Friend AD:


Excellent.........




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Here's the way I'm going to "attempt" to return the third lever and transfer bar.


I'm going to try to use a tension spring affixed like the doodle....


The bottom of the spring will hook in a hole in the bottom of the housing...


Most of the spring should be inside of the housing....


If this doesn't work out, I will probably go with a roll pin in the bottom of the third lever, like we discussed, with a spring similar to the Bond.


Your friend, BC



DSC00152%20-%20Copy%202.jpg



A close up....

DSC00152%20-%20Copy%202%20-%20Copy.jpg
 
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