The rest of the story.........

B

Bill Calfee

Gun Fool
The rest of the story.........


CYA friends:


There's absolutely no reason to use a rear entry action wrench when removing and installing the barrel of a valuable RFBR gun....


With one exception:


That being if you shoot a glue in........


And then, the only "safe" rear entry action wrench must be similar to this one I made 20 some odd years ago, so I could deal with glue-ins.


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Otherwise, this is the safest and most foolproof action wrench everyone should use to remove and install the barrel on your valuable RFBR gun, and it fits all rear lockup RFBR actions.

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Now.................................



The rest of the story:


No rear entry action wrench, including the one I use, gives you the "feel" necessary when torquing the barrel of your RFBR gun, like the crescent wrench does...



CYA friends:


How much torque should be put on the .750" diameter barrel threads, that we use in big time RFBR today, when installing a barrel?


Does anyone know?



Your friend, Bill gun fool Calfee.


_______________________________


PS:


CYA friends:


The question I asked above is not a "trick" question.....


But it is a very complicated question.......


The correct answer is one of the reasons why rear entry action wrenches are worthless for properly removing and installing the barrels on valuable RFBR guns.....
 
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How much torque?

How much torque?



CYA friends:


My two piece, rear entry action wrench applies the torque close to the barrel threads, like a 12 inch crescent wrench does.


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But..........................


Even though this is a "safe" rear entry action wrench, because the wrench driving it is 6 inches away from the pawl, there's not the same degree of "solid feel" that one has using the simple 12 inch crescent wrench.



A rear entry action wrench, a safe rear entry action wrench, I should say, should only be used for glue-ins.


Rear entry action wrenches simply do not give the "feel" required to properly torque the action to the barrel of a RFBR gun.




"Calfee, what do you mean by "feel"?"



I use the term "feel" because that's what is necessary when properly torquing the action to the barrel of a RFBR gun.



I use the word "feel" because there is no, safe, standardized torque number for the .750" barrel thread of the RFBR actions that dominate big time RFBR.



What I mean by "safe" torque is, that which is required to hold the barrel to the action securely, without distorting the bore at the juncture of the action face and barrel shoulder....



Your friend, BC


________________________


PS:


There is no "safe" standardized torque number for the .750" tenon diameter of RFBR actions..


If anyone knows what the proper safe torque is, then please correct me.



Please though, when you give your safe torque figure, tell how you arrived at it, OK.


1..Were the barrel and action threads dry, or coated with some form of lubrication?


What was that lubrication, if it is included when applying your safe torque number?


2..What diameter barrel, meaning how much surface area the barrel shoulder has, is your safe torque setting for?


Please keep in mind, the safe torque setting for the shoulder of an .850" barrel is different from the requirement of a .900" diameter barrel, because of the resulting barrel shoulder area difference.


3..Is the shoulder thickness of your barrel uniform around the circumference, or does it vary in thickness?


There's a whole lot of barrels on RFBR guns today with varying barrel shoulder thickness...


Therefore, how does your "safe" torque number compensate for uneven barrel shoulder thickness?



 
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