Can these springs still be had and, if so, how can I get a few?
Thanks
Tony
Bill,
Thanks! I thought they might be available like the Pepper springs.
Maybe you can answer this - I have a 10x action and of course I can’t get springs from them. Would springs from Anthony DiOrio work in the 10x?
Tony
Bill,
I’ll work with the Pepper springs. I’m seeing what I think is an ignition issue and was/am looking for as many possible solutions as I can find.
Tony
Bill,
I don’t want to take a lot of your time but I’m seeing 2 shots in one hole and the third out mainly low. I have had the original 10x spring in the rifle for three years and maybe 5 bricks through it in that time. I pulled the spring and it is a good 3/8” shorter than a spare 10x spring that I have. I have the Pepper in there now and it’s really driving the FP hard. The FP indent looks like somebody took a hammer and chisel to it.
So far, Wednesday is shaping up to be a day to shoot here in Pittsburgh. I figure I’ll see what happens and if it appears that the Pepper hasn’t done anything or made things worse, I’ll start trimming coils.
Tony
Bill,
The rifle was bedded by a well known rimfire smith. I have 3 barrels for this action and all of them are doing the same thing. I have a Shilen ratchet on there now and it is headspaced at 0.046". This barrel is shimmed to the action so I could tighten that up if needed.
The FP is up against the stop when the bolt is decocked. After firing a round (Center X), the measurement shows 0.0145" so than seems good. But, man, that poor case looks abused! I'll try to get a pic of it in a post.
Thanks for chiming in on this! I certainly appreciate it.
Tony
PS - the other barrels are a Muller 4 MI and a Lilja tight bore.
Bill,
I get 0.041" for the nose recess. I have measured the FP protrusion with both an electronic caliper and a depth micrometer and I get 0.000 for a pin protrusion.
The FP itself is just the standard kind of shape. I did work the area where the pin hits the rim to try and get it off of that folded part of the rim.
I don't have a jig to set up the dial caliper but let me ask if this would be a way to do it.
Get the rifle level in a vise and tighten it up. Have the dial indicator on a stand (which I have - pretty big and heavy) and get it onto the top of the barrel in the center and zero it.
I have the screws torqued to 25"/pounds. With the dial gauge on the barrel and zeroed, crack the front action screw. I should ideally see zero movement. Retighten the front screw back to the 25"/pounds; reset the dial gauge; and crack the rear action screw looking for movement.
Would this way work to check the bedding?
Here is the pic of the fired case but I can agree with what you are saying about overdriving the FP based on the measurements.
Tony
Bill,
Yes. The firing pin tip is flush with the outside of the bolt nose counterbore.
I also took a straight edge and ran Ir across the bolt face and didn’t feel it catch on anything.
Tony
Bill,
Here is what I did for the bedding check.
The forearm of the rifle is clamped in the vise and I had the butt stock resting on some pieces of wood to make it all level. The dial indicator is positioned at the top of the barrel with the tip of the indicator right at the end of the forearm. When I break the front action screw loose, I get an upward deflection of 0.001". I know that zero is the goal but what do you think about this movement. I can repeat this so I think I have the set up robust enough at least for this test.
Tony