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Bill Calfee -Not
- Thread starter Bill Calfee
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Some Tuners look like they clamp onto the end of the barrel and are adjusted inward and outward by dialing graduations on the Tuner. Other Tuners look like they are clamped onto the barrel at some distance away from the muzzle. To adjust them one has to loosen the clamping screws and move the Tuner closer to the muzzle or farther away from the muzzle. Is this correct?
MikeMcAllister
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Are you referring to bloop tubes, in your second case? Some people choose to add a bloop tube. Again, they are additional weight and they usually have a sliding weight that can be moved back and forth.
A 'regular' tuner, PQP, Harrels, etc. clamps on the end of the barrel. They are internally threaded, and have graduations very similar to a micrometer. The threads move the weight beyond the crown in either direction.
In either case, the shooter is tuning vibrations of the barrel by moving weight either further away from, or closer to, the crown of the barrel.
There are also bloop tubes that screw into the threads of a PQP or Harrells tuner. FYI, the threads are exactly the same in PQP and Harrells tuners. Additional weights and bloop tubes that are made for one are interchangeable.
Sorry if I am misunderstanding your question. If you have pictures of the two different types of tuners you are seeing, those pictures might help explain.
MikeMcAllister
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Sorry I went with 'bloop tube', which goes out beyond the crown, rather than a mid-barrel tuner which goes behind the crown.
The mid-barrel tuners are adjusted by trial and error. They have rubber inside them and are adjusted by loosening the clamp screws and manually moving them in small increments. The instructions I have (Charlie Scott mid-barrel) say to adjust in 1/8" to 1/4" increments looking for the location that provides the smallest groups.
Several of the people I shoot with use both a mid-barrel and a crown/muzzle tuner. They can work together. Other opinions I have read indicate a mid-barrel is not needed, due to the added complexity of two interrelated tuners. It comes down to what you want to experiment with in the search for accuracy.
Tuners improve groups, but an inaccurate barrel or non-optimal ammunition will harm accuracy more than tuners will help, in my opinion. So...first get a premium barrel chambered by an excellent rimfire gunsmith. Then take the time and expense to test lots of rimfire ammo looking for the best you can afford.
Then invest in a crown/muzzle tuner; learn the tuner and see how it works to optimize accuracy. Almost everyone that shoots ARA competition uses a muzzle tuner. Not everyone uses mid-barrel tuners or bloop tubes.
Finally, invest in a mid-barrel if you think accuracy can be further improved.
I would be interested in other opinions to help give Ventidue some different perspectives.
--Mike Mc
Tuning a rifle is like going from point A to point B.
That said, you can take many routes, and eventually arriving at point B.
I prefer taking the most straight, short and easy one. But don't take me wrong I have tried several other ways to get there. The most important part is taking notes and understanding if your route is the best one, and if are not diverting you from anything else.
I have used tubes, all tuners you can name, no tuners.... In fact the only success I had with tubes was with a Grunig and RWS ammo.
But I realize the more tings you put on your rifle, the more things are interacting, the more complex it became, and the harder it will be to "align" all elements to achieve our goal.
What I do recommend, every time I'm asked for, is the KISS technique... keep it simple shooter. And the simpler your rifle is the easier to tune it will became. But, not all rifles can be tune to shoot 8mm 30 shots groups. In fact, very few can, if ever...
Don't make your life harder, just used a tuner, or MD as same call it. Don't use anything else.
If you can't achieve what you want with just a tuner, look at something else, being your rifle, ammo, bench gear end even yourself, the shooter.
I invite you to read my story, if you find it interesting, on Benchrest Central. There I go deep on tuning and achieving the best with your rifle.
Of course Ill be here to help and answer your questions. But, please make only questions I can answer
That said, you can take many routes, and eventually arriving at point B.
I prefer taking the most straight, short and easy one. But don't take me wrong I have tried several other ways to get there. The most important part is taking notes and understanding if your route is the best one, and if are not diverting you from anything else.
I have used tubes, all tuners you can name, no tuners.... In fact the only success I had with tubes was with a Grunig and RWS ammo.
But I realize the more tings you put on your rifle, the more things are interacting, the more complex it became, and the harder it will be to "align" all elements to achieve our goal.
What I do recommend, every time I'm asked for, is the KISS technique... keep it simple shooter. And the simpler your rifle is the easier to tune it will became. But, not all rifles can be tune to shoot 8mm 30 shots groups. In fact, very few can, if ever...
Don't make your life harder, just used a tuner, or MD as same call it. Don't use anything else.
If you can't achieve what you want with just a tuner, look at something else, being your rifle, ammo, bench gear end even yourself, the shooter.
I invite you to read my story, if you find it interesting, on Benchrest Central. There I go deep on tuning and achieving the best with your rifle.
Of course Ill be here to help and answer your questions. But, please make only questions I can answer